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Fibre Mix Selection ver 1.0 for Cotton Fibres for UAK-1
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Fibre Mix Selection ver 1.0 for Cotton Fibres for UAK-1
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Introduction
Itru Fibre Tester UAK-1 also includes Fibre Mix Selection Pc-Program .
Fibre Mix Selection Pc-Program makes use of following input values from Itru Fibre Tester UAK-1
2,5% SLY1-Fibre Graph.Weighted........mm:
50,0% SLY2-Fibre Graph Weighhted.. ....mm:
Fibre Fineness.U.....micronaire.........:
Presley-1/8in-Fibre Strength cn/tex.....:
More Information about Itru Fibre Tester UAK-1 and Portable UAK-1A
This program "FIBRE MIX SEARCH & SELECTION CONTROL by ITRU GROUP LTD" has been developed by ITRU GROUP LTD -International Textile Consulting & Management. FMSSC PC-PROGRAM could be used on all IBM compatible PCs to optimize spinning process. This program has been prepared for cotton fibres and cotton spinning. A part of the program could also be used for other short staple fibres spinning processes. PROGRAM has consists of following sub-PC-programs :
a)Fibre Mix Samples Search and Selection Data Bank
b)Fibre Samples Selection and Pareto Analyses and also supported by Bale Management and Yarn ENGINEERING PC-PROGRAMS as well.
1.2.1 Fibre-Mix Search and Selection Data Bank
Cotton fibre is commercially judged bye its main properties; staple length,color,micronaire,presley at zero gauge etc. To purchase the cotton fibre as it seems to an eye,without using any testing instruments is rather a risky attempt. In order to obtain optimum quality with minimum cost,one should purchase the right raw materially for the required yarn properties. Therefore,the selection of the raw material would depend the required quality of yarn and its end-use. After supplying the appropriate material,measurements should go on during the processes as the fibre parameters are not constant and modify in each process.
This program has been developed through extensive research work carried out on carded,combed and rotor spinning mills,and measurements are conducted on cotton samples taken all round the world. Many cotton fibres were tested by fibrogram,HVI ,Steolometre and Fibre Tester UAK-1 the relevant correlation were developed and tested in actual mill running conditions.
The intention of the program is to select the most proper type of cotton according to the spinning data:
• Count of yarn in tex
• Turns per cm
• Type of process (Carded Ring-Combed Ring-Rotor Spinning)
and present most important fibre parameters of the cotton fibres tested.
Fibre Mix Selection Data Bank consists of fibre data values and fed by the FIBRE SAMPLES PARETO ANALYSES PC-PROGRAM. Therefore,any sample testing carried out in the mill could be used in future purposes for selecting the most optimum cotton type. Therefore, DATABANK grows at each fibre testing. In the DATA BANK more than 400 cotton samples from all round the world has been included. And this Data Bank could be used any time for any type fibre mix selection. Therefore,it is possible to compare the different types of cotton from any part of the world and choose the most appropriate type of cotton for processing.
Table 1.1 shows the recommended various types of cotton. From this table one could compare the projected yarn strength values of different types and choose the most optimum one for the end use such as weaving warp yarn , weaving weft yarn and hosiery.
From projected blowroom+card waste loss and short fibre content one could also estimate the end break rate and yield performance of the each cotton type. It is clear that this PC-PROGRAM gives many information on cotton spinning. But it also requires excellent knowledge of textile technologist if one needs to get maximum efficiency from the PC-PROGRAM.
It
is clear that CIM systems has been developed by many companies
on a worldwide basis i.e. on-line quality and production
control systems now
exits
in many spinning and weaving mills. But CIM systems do not eliminate
the existing problems. The data gathered from the systems should be
collected
and analyzed. Therefore CIM systems require very qualified
textile technologists to achieve better running efficiencies in
spinning and weaving mills. On the other hand
PC-PROGRAMS could analyze these collected data.
PC-PROGRAMS could be designed on three basis
a)Statistical calculations
b)Technological conceptions and Knowledge based
c)Both
Therefore
PC-PROGRAMS also act as a tool to help the textile technologists
to achieve better running performance in the spinning mills. The
result of
the PC-PROGRAMS should also be analyzed and worked on
very carefully. However,both CIM AND PC-PROGRAMS bring new management
techniques
to the mills. Now,the mills should be directed not by the managers
but through knowledge. We call this new system Knowledge Based
Management . FIBRE MIX SELECTION DATA BANK
PC-PROGRAM is such a part of this complete CIM systems. We can not
guess exactly what will the future
will bring but we are sure that most of the existing conceptions inn
spinning and weaving technology would definitely change and are
changing.5
years ago most of the spinners would emphasize the importance of
linear irregularity CV% value of yarn for weaving. But now,people
have started to
talk about elastic modulus of yarn more than evenness. Therefore,we
have taken the key parameter as a single end projected yarn strength
for optimum
selection of the raw material rather than evenness.
Table 1.0 shows a print out a <Data Entry From Fibre Selection Data Bank> From this result one could choose the most optimum cotton type for the required spinning process.
FIBRE
MIX SEARCH & SELECTION DATA BANK
SL1 =2.5% Span length in mm (weighted from UAK-1 Fibre Tester)
-Input
SL2 =50% Span length in mm
(weighted from UAK-1 Fibre Tester)-Input
LM =Mean fibre length by number in mm
CVN =CV % of fibre length distribution by number divided by 10
LG =Mean fibre length by fibre weight in mm
LUHM =Upper half mean length in mm
LS =Staple length in 1/16 inch
SFC =Short fibre content by fibre number
U =Micronaire
(From UAK-1 Fibre Tester)-Input
FM3 =Maturity ratio
HS =Standart fibre fineness mtex
CN =Fibre strength in cN/tex for 1/8 inch gauge (From
UAK-1 Fibre Tester)-Input
NLC =Non-lint content of cotton
RKM =Single end projected yarn strength in cN/tex
Input:
TURNS
PER CM..................11.53
COUNT
OF YARN IN TEX.......... 9.66
SPINNING
PROCESS :COMBED RING SPINNING
Output:
Cotton
Type
SL1 SL2 LM CVN LG
LUHM LS SFC U FM3
HS CN NLC RKM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nazilli
Delsore
33.81 14.54 24.19 4.0 29.3 34.22 20.9 5.5 3.50 0.88 161.8
26.6 3.3 20.31
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
KoycegizM
30.16 15.38 23.25 3.8 26.4 30.47 18.9 3.5 3.50 0.91 148.4
25.6 3.6 22.40
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Bergama
S
30.13 14.28 22.47 3.9 26.2 30.46 18.8 5.4 3.60 0.89 161.0
24.2 4.2 18.75
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Manisa
S
30.31 14.01 22.36 3.9 26.3 30.65 18.9 5.9 3.40 0.83 174.6
22.9 4.7 16.90
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
TurgutluS
30.30 14.20 22.49 3.9 26.3 30.64 18.9 5.5 3.80 0.90 171.5
23.2 4.6 17.60
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Milas
E
30.41 14.40 22.67 3.9 26.4 30.75 19.0 5.2 3.40 0.87 156.0
25.0 3.9 19.62
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Salihli
E
30.23 14.72 22.82 3.8 26.3 30.56 18.9 4.6 4.00 0.97 156.6
24.7 4.0 20.17
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Milas
E
30.41 14.40 22.67 3.9 26.4 30.75 19.0 5.2 3.40 0.87 156.0
25.0 3.9 19.62
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Salihli
E
30.23 14.72 22.82 3.8 26.3 30.56 18.9 4.6 4.00 0.97 156.6
24.7 4.0 20.17
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Rahad
ShambBSG
33.34 14.50 23.97 3.9 28.9 33.74 20.6 5.5 4.30 0.92 192.5
23.0 4.7 17.08
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Sudan
Barakat
33.58 14.31 23.94 4.0 29.1 33.99 20.7 5.9 3.60 0.95 141.2
29.5 2.3 22.46
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
IsraelPima
Maori/s
31.82 15.04 23.71 3.9 27.7 32.17 19.8 4.4 3.40 0.96 130.9
29.8 2.2 24.60
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Giza
70 G
33.06 15.12 24.28 3.9 28.7 33.44 20.5 4.6 4.10 0.98 159.1
26.3 3.4 21.40
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Russ.Varna/87
33.44 15.83 24.93 3.9 29.1 33.81 20.7 3.6 3.60 0.97 136.9
29.9 2.2 25.62
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Russ.Petro/86
33.49 15.85 24.97 3.9 29.1 33.86 20.7 3.6 3.20 0.90 137.3
29.9 2.2 25.60
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Peruvian
Tanguis
31.03 15.97 24.02 3.8 27.2 31.35 19.4 2.8 4.90 0.96 210.1
20.1 6.0 18.08
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Optimum selection of fibre type would depend upon the yarn end use which will depend upon following factors:
Projected single end yarn strength
Short fibre content % which is related to the end break rate and hairiness
Non-lint content % which is a key for blowroom+card loss
Cost price and yield performance
Required
mean yarn strength in cN/tex
It
becomes very clear that best cotton is not the one which gives
highest yarn strength but most compatible one with the yarn
quality. Therefore,one
should carefully analyses these results and choose the optimum cotton
type for the selection. So PC-PROGRAMS certainly bring new
conceptions to the
spinners.
1.2.2 Fibre
Samples Selection and Pareto Analyses
1.2.2.1
Sample Selection
The cotton samples were tested for comparison purposes before purchase actually take place. For testing there are many testing instruments available. These are fibre-length,strength,micronaire and sometimes non-lint content percentage. However,these values do not correlate very well with the yarn performance in weaving or knitting if one consider them separately . All the fibre parameters should be considered as a whole to distinguish the cotton samples from one another. Therefore,selection of a most appropriate cotton sample for the spinning should be compatible with the actual mill running conditions and spinning data. The usual procedure is to have one blend for each type of process i.e. carded,combed and rotor.
In order to achieve optimum spinning conditions following plan should be drawn for each type of spinning process.
• Count range to be spun
• Twist range
• Yarn end-use i.e. warp,weft or hosiery
• Yield ratio i.e. raw material/yarn performance
• End-break rate at each stage of processing
• Type of weaving or knitting machine
•
Cost of raw material
It is possible to achieve optimum quality if these points are taken into consideration. We do not intend to get higher quality but optimum quality of yarn from the raw material selection to optimize the manufacturing costs and to get optimum results. In actual spinning conditions mills organize their blend according to count range.
Cotton fibres could be classified into five classes according to the count,twist multiplier and processing organization as shown below.
|
2.5% SL |
COUNT OF YARN TEX |
FIBRE CLASS |
|
25.40 |
32> |
Short |
|
27.18 |
20 |
Medium |
|
30.98 |
15 |
Medium to long |
|
34.00 |
12 |
Long |
|
38.80 |
7 |
Extra long |
However,there is a large variation within each class and between classes. Nowadays,spinners try to spin finer counts medium to long type of cottons such as 12 tex combed yarn . Therefore,the trend is to get finest count for a given fibre class group with optimum weaving and knitting performance.
We would like to spin 19.68 tex carded yarn and there are ten samples to be tested. We have Fibre Tester UAK-1 testing instruments in our lab. FIBRE SAMPLE SELECTION PC-PROGRAM here analyses these ten samples and gives the projected single end yarn strength. From these projected single end yarn strength one could select the optimum cotton type to spin in mill. The following list gives an example of ten cotton samples result.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:TOGO ALTO-S
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:28.88
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.79
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.62
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.20
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:40.75
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 6.08
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:32.83
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.20
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:76.96
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:176.42
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 77.33
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.84
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.13
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.18
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:44.36
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
6.98
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:16.36
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:AUSTRALIAN ANDY
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:29.25
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.11
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.30
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.47
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:44.23
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 7.43
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:33.50
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.59
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:75.97
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:183.49
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 75.90
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.53
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.30
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.32
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:56.58
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.11
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:14.03
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:AUSTRALIAN NICE
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:29.56
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.78
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.89
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.77
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:42.07
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 6.19
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:33.70
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.89
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:77.73
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:177.32
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 78.42
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:22.19
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.51
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.03
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:45.06
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
6.85
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:16.42
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:GREECE MABAL
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:27.07
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:12.04
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:19.65
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:23.57
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:44.65
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 9.62
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:31.03
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:27.39
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:74.46
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:168.56
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 73.67
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.67
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:17.03
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.26
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:94.11
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.05
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:11.23
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM-CARDED/COMBED/ROTOR
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:AFRICAN SPINLAC
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:31.07
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:15.33
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:23.60
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:27.17
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:38.94
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 3.79
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:35.18
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:31.40
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:79.18
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:156.39
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 80.44
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:25.24
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:19.45
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
3.79
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:25.15
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
5.67
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:22.54
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:TCHAD RAKA
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:28.74
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.79
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.56
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.09
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:40.48
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 6.05
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:32.66
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.05
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:79.08
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:180.21
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 80.30
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.41
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.05
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.37
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:42.98
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.16
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:16.00
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:TCHAD BACC
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:27.92
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.24
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:20.83
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:24.36
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:41.13
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 7.06
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:31.77
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:28.23
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:79.94
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:174.52
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 81.48
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.49
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:17.56
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.34
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:56.62
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.13
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:14.70
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM-CARDED/COMBED/ROTOR
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:ARGENTINE DAREN
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:28.03
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.10
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:20.78
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:24.44
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:41.93
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 7.36
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:31.95
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:28.34
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:74.49
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:201.73
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 73.71
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:19.42
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:17.61
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
6.34
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:49.75
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.99
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:12.24
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM-CARDED/COMBED/ROTOR
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:ARGENTINE COLLY
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:28.08
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.41
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.02
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:24.51
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:40.74
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 6.73
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:31.92
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:28.39
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:82.27
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:160.41
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 84.55
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:22.97
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:17.66
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
4.69
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:58.60
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
6.54
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:16.54
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM-CARDED/COMBED/ROTOR
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:CALIFORNIA T/C
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:29.15
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:14.16
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.98
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.47
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:39.80
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 5.41
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:33.07
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.47
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:78.49
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:172.24
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 79.48
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:22.36
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.30
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
4.95
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:38.47
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
6.78
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:17.78
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
Type
.:TOGO ALTO-S AUSTRALIAN ANDY AUSTRALIAN NICE GREECE MABAL AFRICA
SPINLAC
SL1
...: 28.88 29.25
29.56
27.07 31.07
SL2
...: 13.79 13.11
13.78
12.04 15.33
LM
...: 21.62 21.30
21.89
19.65 23.60
LG
...: 25.20 25.47
25.77
23.57 27.17
CVN
...: 40.75 44.23
42.07
44.65 38.94
SFC
...: 6.08
7.43
6.19
9.62 3.79
LE
...: 32.83 33.50
33.70
31.03 35.18
LUH
.. : 29.20 29.59
29.89
27.39 31.40
FM1
...: 76.96 75.97
77.73
74.46 79.18
HS
.. :176.42 183.49
177.32
168.56 156.39
PM
.. : 77.33 75.90
78.42
73.67 80.44
CN
.. : 21.84 21.53
22.19
21.67 25.24
LS
. .: 18.13 18.30
18.51
17.03 19.45
NLC
...: 5.18
5.32
5.03
5.26 3.79
NG
. .: 44.36 56.58
45.06
94.11 25.15
WL
%..: 6.98
7.11
6.85
7.05 5.67
-----------------------------------------------
---------------- ------------
.RKM....:16.36
14.03
16.42
11.23 22.54
------------------------------------------------
---------------- ------------
Type
.: TCHAD RAKA TCHAD BACC ARGENTINE DAREN ARGENTINE COLLY CALIFORNIA
T/C
SL1
...::28.74 27.92
:28.03
28.08
29.15
SL2
...::13.79 13.24
:13.10
13.41
14.16
LM
...::21.56 20.83
:20.78
21.02
21.98
LG
...::25.09 24.36
:24.44
24.51
25.47
CVN
...::40.48 41.13
:41.93
40.74
39.80
SFC
...:: 6.05 7.06
: 7.36
6.73
5.41
LE
...::32.66 31.77
:31.95
31.92
33.07
LUH
.. ::29.05 28.23
:28.34
28.39
29.47
FM1
...::79.08 79.94
:74.49
82.27
78.49
HS
.. ::80.21 174.52
:201.73
160.41 172.24
PM
.. ::80.30 81.48 :
73.71
84.55
79.48
CN
.. ::21.41 21.49
:19.42
22.97
22.36
LS
. .::18.05 17.56
:17.61
17.66
18.30
NLC
...:: 5.37 5.34
: 6.34
4.69
4.95
NG
. .::42.98 56.62
:49.75
58.60
38.47
WL
%..: : 7.16 7.13
: 7.99
6.54
6.78
------------------
--------- -------------------------------- ----------
RKM....::16.00
14.70 :12.24
16.54
17.78
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
The summary of result could be envisaged by the mill management to select the most appropriate type of cotton. The tables shows that it is not the fibre class but the whole properties of fibres are of more importance.
So we have to make decision about the required yarn strength and blowroom +card loss. As it was mentioned before,most optimum cotton is not the one which projects maximum yarn strength and minimum waste loss but most optimum for the required yarn quality and end-use.
Cost of raw material would depend upon
• Cost Per kg lost cost per kg
• Waste lost cost per kg
•
End
breaks cost/per end break
So it becomes clear that cheapest cotton could become most expensive one.
So
all these factors should be calculated and most appropriate one
should
then be selected. The program gives projected waste lost total of
blowroom
and
carding. And % of short fibre is closely related to the end-break
rate.
1.2.2.2 Fibre Samples Selection for Comparison Actual and Projected Yarn Strength
The program could also be used
• to check the type of raw material of a given type of yarn
• to check the possible strength variation through the projected single end yarn strength
• To
check the spinning processes running correctly.
The following table has been taken from an actual mill bale-mix combination
Actual Bale Mix,Projected Yarn Strength and Measured Yarn Strength
Fibre Type # of bales Projected Yarn º Measured Yarn
Strength
Strength cN/tex º cN
Frequency
º
TORBALI(A) 1
17.50
º 250 *****
TORBALI(B) 2
16.13 º
260 *******
TORBALI(C) 5
22.66 º
270 *
AYDIN 3
21.23 º
280 ********
SALIHLI 1
19.74 º
290 *******
NAZILLI 4
18.25 º
300 ********************
º 310 *************
º 320 *************
16-17 **
º 330 *************
17-18 *
º 340 *******
18-19 ****
º 350 ********
19-20 *
º 360
20-21
º 370
21-22 ***
º 380
22-23 ***** º
390 *
Projected Yarn-Strength Frequency
It
is clear that if there is a high variation in the projected
yarn strength then there is also a variation in the
actual yarn strength. Similar trials were carried out on another
cotton spinning mills where only two kinds of blends used projected
and actual yarn strength variation were all
small . Therefore,one can conclude that number of bales allowed
in a mix should obey the bell shape distribution with minimum
length of tales if one
tries
to achieve low CV% in yarn strength. Actual yarn strength
varies between 12 to 19 cN/tex. There is also a weak
portion in the frequency
diagram
and it is clear from both diagrams that fibre-mix is not compatible
with the yarn quality. A further trial of yarn strength stroke
diagram were
carried out on this yarn and very low weak places were found. Actual
yarn strength is lower than projected strength. Therefore,the
cotton fibre
parameters
have been checked at the various stages of processing and the
following table summarizes how the cotton fibre could be deteriorated
during the manufacturing process:
|
Process |
2.5%Span Length in mm |
50% Span length in mm |
Micronaire |
|
Blend |
29.81 |
14.81 |
4.1 |
|
Combed Cotton Ring Frame Front Roll Delivery |
27.39 |
12.80 |
4.1 |
|
Card Flat Waste |
25.66 |
9.83 |
3.7 |
|
Carded Cotton Ring Frame Front Roll Delivery |
21.09 |
9.83 |
3.6 |
|
Combing Noil |
20.14 |
9.08 |
3.6 |
It
has been observed in many spinning mills in rotor and ring
spinning,draft zone setting according to minimize linear irregularity
of
delivery
product and/or to have a growth in span-length values at each stage
do not necessarily lead to better quality of yarn. Any mill could
make
trials
and see the result themselves as well. The other important point that
low CV% values of linear irregularity of mass/diameter of card,draw
frame
sliver
would may lead to high CV% of linear irregularity of yarn.
Therefore,addition of irregularities would not always function
correctly i.e. an irregularity added by the machine could change and
increase even the input irregularity is low.
The following table summarizes the tensile test carried out on a cotton yarn made in Egypt. The type of cotton used GIZA long staple cotton.
YARN DATA: TURNS PER CM=11.53
COUNT =9.66 TEX
COMBED
TENSILE PROPERTIES:
B-WORK B-FORCE
CN/TEX E%
AVE 287.4
241.9 24.19
5.4
CV% 15.14
8.9 8.9
8.15
Q95% 31.3
15.4 1.54
0.29
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIBRE
DATA
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Combed Ring Spinning: Turns per cm............:11.53
Count of yarn in tex....: 9.66
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:GIZA
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:34.11
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:15.90
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:25.26
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:29.73
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:42.08
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 3.65
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:38.89
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:34.49
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:81.73
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:142.44
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 83.85
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:29.44
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:21.15
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
2.35
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:25.21
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
4.11
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:24.05
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LONG
STAPLE-LONG-CARDED/COMBED
Actual
yarn strength varies between 22.65 to 25.73 cN/tex and
projected
yarn strength is 24.05 cN/tex. One could clearly say that
this spinning
process running quite well. It is also interesting to note that no
fibre breakage were noticed in ring frame when spun with
Giza Cotton.
2.0
Summary and Conclusions
These PC-PROGRAMS have been designed to help cotton spinners to achieve optimum yarn quality with optimum cost. Yarn strength and its variation are key parameters in spinning. But one should be also aware of the fibre and yarn elastic modulu and its variation. Because,this parameters influence the weaving and knitting performance of yarn. It is also very clear that these PC-PROGRAMS could be a very useful tool for a spinner. And we would be very pleased to help any spinning mill to for the above mentioned items.
Fibre
Mix Selection Pc-Program has been effectively used in reducing
combing noil from 17% to 10 % and also reducing raw material cost in
open-end ring spun yarn . Further information is given in Yarn
Process Engineering Research
Project
Copyright © 1992-2007
by ITRU GROUP LTD.
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ITRU GROUP LTD -International Textile Research Unit |
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