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Fibre Mix Selection ver 1.0 for Cotton Fibres for UAK-1
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Introduction
Itru Fibre Tester UAK-1 also includes Fibre Mix Selection Pc-Program .
Fibre Mix Selection Pc-Program makes use of following input values from Itru Fibre Tester UAK-1
2,5% SLY1-Fibre Graph.Weighted........mm:
50,0% SLY2-Fibre Graph Weighhted.. ....mm:
Fibre Fineness.U.....micronaire.........:
Presley-1/8in-Fibre Strength cn/tex.....:
More Information about Itru Fibre Tester UAK-1 and Portable UAK-1A
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This program "FIBRE MIX SEARCH & SELECTION CONTROL by ITRU GROUP LTD" has been developed by ITRU GROUP LTD -International Textile Consulting & Management. FMSSC PC-PROGRAM could be used on all IBM compatible PCs to optimize spinning process. This program has been prepared for cotton fibres and cotton spinning. A part of the program could also be used for other short staple fibres spinning processes. PROGRAM has consists of following sub-PC-programs :
a)Fibre Mix Samples Search and Selection Data Bank
b)Fibre Samples Selection and Pareto Analyses and also supported by Bale Management and Yarn ENGINEERING PC-PROGRAMS as well.
1.2.1 Fibre-Mix Search and Selection Data Bank
Cotton fibre is commercially judged bye its main properties; staple length,color,micronaire,presley at zero gauge etc. To purchase the cotton fibre as it seems to an eye,without using any testing instruments is rather a risky attempt. In order to obtain optimum quality with minimum cost,one should purchase the right raw materially for the required yarn properties. Therefore,the selection of the raw material would depend the required quality of yarn and its end-use. After supplying the appropriate material,measurements should go on during the processes as the fibre parameters are not constant and modify in each process.
This program has been developed through extensive research work carried out on carded,combed and rotor spinning mills,and measurements are conducted on cotton samples taken all round the world. Many cotton fibres were tested by fibrogram,HVI ,Steolometre and Fibre Tester UAK-1 the relevant correlation were developed and tested in actual mill running conditions.
The intention of the program is to select the most proper type of cotton according to the spinning data:
Count of yarn in tex
Turns per cm
Type of process (Carded Ring-Combed Ring-Rotor Spinning)
and present most important fibre parameters of the cotton fibres tested.
Fibre Mix Selection Data Bank consists of fibre data values and fed by the FIBRE SAMPLES PARETO ANALYSES PC-PROGRAM. Therefore,any sample testing carried out in the mill could be used in future purposes for selecting the most optimum cotton type. Therefore, DATABANK grows at each fibre testing. In the DATA BANK more than 400 cotton samples from all round the world has been included. And this Data Bank could be used any time for any type fibre mix selection. Therefore,it is possible to compare the different types of cotton from any part of the world and choose the most appropriate type of cotton for processing.
Table 1.1 shows the recommended various types of cotton. From this table one could compare the projected yarn strength values of different types and choose the most optimum one for the end use such as weaving warp yarn , weaving weft yarn and hosiery.
From projected blowroom+card waste loss and short fibre content one could also estimate the end break rate and yield performance of the each cotton type. It is clear that this PC-PROGRAM gives many information on cotton spinning. But it also requires excellent knowledge of textile technologist if one needs to get maximum efficiency from the PC-PROGRAM.
It
is clear that CIM systems has been developed by many companies
on a worldwide basis i.e. on-line quality and production
control systems now
exits
in many spinning and weaving mills. But CIM systems do not eliminate
the existing problems. The data gathered from the systems should be
collected
and analyzed. Therefore CIM systems require very qualified
textile technologists to achieve better running efficiencies in
spinning and weaving mills. On the other hand
PC-PROGRAMS could analyze these collected data.
PC-PROGRAMS could be designed on three basis
a)Statistical calculations
b)Technological conceptions and Knowledge based
c)Both
Therefore
PC-PROGRAMS also act as a tool to help the textile technologists
to achieve better running performance in the spinning mills. The
result of
the PC-PROGRAMS should also be analyzed and worked on
very carefully. However,both CIM AND PC-PROGRAMS bring new management
techniques
to the mills. Now,the mills should be directed not by the managers
but through knowledge. We call this new system Knowledge Based
Management . FIBRE MIX SELECTION DATA BANK
PC-PROGRAM is such a part of this complete CIM systems. We can not
guess exactly what will the future
will bring but we are sure that most of the existing conceptions inn
spinning and weaving technology would definitely change and are
changing.5
years ago most of the spinners would emphasize the importance of
linear irregularity CV% value of yarn for weaving. But now,people
have started to
talk about elastic modulus of yarn more than evenness. Therefore,we
have taken the key parameter as a single end projected yarn strength
for optimum
selection of the raw material rather than evenness.
Table 1.0 shows a print out a <Data Entry From Fibre Selection Data Bank> From this result one could choose the most optimum cotton type for the required spinning process.
FIBRE
MIX SEARCH & SELECTION DATA BANK
SL1 =2.5% Span length in mm (weighted from UAK-1 Fibre Tester)
-Input
SL2 =50% Span length in mm
(weighted from UAK-1 Fibre Tester)-Input
LM =Mean fibre length by number in mm
CVN =CV % of fibre length distribution by number divided by 10
LG =Mean fibre length by fibre weight in mm
LUHM =Upper half mean length in mm
LS =Staple length in 1/16 inch
SFC =Short fibre content by fibre number
U =Micronaire
(From UAK-1 Fibre Tester)-Input
FM3 =Maturity ratio
HS =Standart fibre fineness mtex
CN =Fibre strength in cN/tex for 1/8 inch gauge (From
UAK-1 Fibre Tester)-Input
NLC =Non-lint content of cotton
RKM =Single end projected yarn strength in cN/tex
Input:
TURNS
PER CM..................11.53
COUNT
OF YARN IN TEX.......... 9.66
SPINNING
PROCESS :COMBED RING SPINNING
Output:
Cotton
Type
SL1 SL2 LM CVN LG
LUHM LS SFC U FM3
HS CN NLC RKM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nazilli
Delsore
33.81 14.54 24.19 4.0 29.3 34.22 20.9 5.5 3.50 0.88 161.8
26.6 3.3 20.31
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
KoycegizM
30.16 15.38 23.25 3.8 26.4 30.47 18.9 3.5 3.50 0.91 148.4
25.6 3.6 22.40
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Bergama
S
30.13 14.28 22.47 3.9 26.2 30.46 18.8 5.4 3.60 0.89 161.0
24.2 4.2 18.75
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Manisa
S
30.31 14.01 22.36 3.9 26.3 30.65 18.9 5.9 3.40 0.83 174.6
22.9 4.7 16.90
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
TurgutluS
30.30 14.20 22.49 3.9 26.3 30.64 18.9 5.5 3.80 0.90 171.5
23.2 4.6 17.60
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Milas
E
30.41 14.40 22.67 3.9 26.4 30.75 19.0 5.2 3.40 0.87 156.0
25.0 3.9 19.62
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Salihli
E
30.23 14.72 22.82 3.8 26.3 30.56 18.9 4.6 4.00 0.97 156.6
24.7 4.0 20.17
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Milas
E
30.41 14.40 22.67 3.9 26.4 30.75 19.0 5.2 3.40 0.87 156.0
25.0 3.9 19.62
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Salihli
E
30.23 14.72 22.82 3.8 26.3 30.56 18.9 4.6 4.00 0.97 156.6
24.7 4.0 20.17
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Rahad
ShambBSG
33.34 14.50 23.97 3.9 28.9 33.74 20.6 5.5 4.30 0.92 192.5
23.0 4.7 17.08
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Sudan
Barakat
33.58 14.31 23.94 4.0 29.1 33.99 20.7 5.9 3.60 0.95 141.2
29.5 2.3 22.46
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
IsraelPima
Maori/s
31.82 15.04 23.71 3.9 27.7 32.17 19.8 4.4 3.40 0.96 130.9
29.8 2.2 24.60
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG CARDED/COMBED
Giza
70 G
33.06 15.12 24.28 3.9 28.7 33.44 20.5 4.6 4.10 0.98 159.1
26.3 3.4 21.40
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Russ.Varna/87
33.44 15.83 24.93 3.9 29.1 33.81 20.7 3.6 3.60 0.97 136.9
29.9 2.2 25.62
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Russ.Petro/86
33.49 15.85 24.97 3.9 29.1 33.86 20.7 3.6 3.20 0.90 137.3
29.9 2.2 25.60
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Peruvian
Tanguis
31.03 15.97 24.02 3.8 27.2 31.35 19.4 2.8 4.90 0.96 210.1
20.1 6.0 18.08
LONG
STAPLE-LONG- CARDED&COMBED
Optimum selection of fibre type would depend upon the yarn end use which will depend upon following factors:
Projected single end yarn strength
Short fibre content % which is related to the end break rate and hairiness
Non-lint content % which is a key for blowroom+card loss
Cost price and yield performance
Required
mean yarn strength in cN/tex
It
becomes very clear that best cotton is not the one which gives
highest yarn strength but most compatible one with the yarn
quality. Therefore,one
should carefully analyses these results and choose the optimum cotton
type for the selection. So PC-PROGRAMS certainly bring new
conceptions to the
spinners.
1.2.2 Fibre
Samples Selection and Pareto Analyses
1.2.2.1
Sample Selection
The cotton samples were tested for comparison purposes before purchase actually take place. For testing there are many testing instruments available. These are fibre-length,strength,micronaire and sometimes non-lint content percentage. However,these values do not correlate very well with the yarn performance in weaving or knitting if one consider them separately . All the fibre parameters should be considered as a whole to distinguish the cotton samples from one another. Therefore,selection of a most appropriate cotton sample for the spinning should be compatible with the actual mill running conditions and spinning data. The usual procedure is to have one blend for each type of process i.e. carded,combed and rotor.
In order to achieve optimum spinning conditions following plan should be drawn for each type of spinning process.
Count range to be spun
Twist range
Yarn end-use i.e. warp,weft or hosiery
Yield ratio i.e. raw material/yarn performance
End-break rate at each stage of processing
Type of weaving or knitting machine
Cost of raw material
It is possible to achieve optimum quality if these points are taken into consideration. We do not intend to get higher quality but optimum quality of yarn from the raw material selection to optimize the manufacturing costs and to get optimum results. In actual spinning conditions mills organize their blend according to count range.
Cotton fibres could be classified into five classes according to the count,twist multiplier and processing organization as shown below.
|
2.5% SL |
COUNT OF YARN TEX |
FIBRE CLASS |
|
25.40 |
32> |
Short |
|
27.18 |
20 |
Medium |
|
30.98 |
15 |
Medium to long |
|
34.00 |
12 |
Long |
|
38.80 |
7 |
Extra long |
However,there is a large variation within each class and between classes. Nowadays,spinners try to spin finer counts medium to long type of cottons such as 12 tex combed yarn . Therefore,the trend is to get finest count for a given fibre class group with optimum weaving and knitting performance.
We would like to spin 19.68 tex carded yarn and there are ten samples to be tested. We have Fibre Tester UAK-1 testing instruments in our lab. FIBRE SAMPLE SELECTION PC-PROGRAM here analyses these ten samples and gives the projected single end yarn strength. From these projected single end yarn strength one could select the optimum cotton type to spin in mill. The following list gives an example of ten cotton samples result.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:TOGO ALTO-S
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:28.88
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.79
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.62
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.20
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:40.75
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 6.08
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:32.83
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.20
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:76.96
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:176.42
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 77.33
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.84
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.13
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.18
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:44.36
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
6.98
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:16.36
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:AUSTRALIAN ANDY
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:29.25
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.11
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.30
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.47
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:44.23
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 7.43
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:33.50
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.59
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:75.97
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:183.49
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 75.90
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.53
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.30
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.32
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:56.58
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.11
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:14.03
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:AUSTRALIAN NICE
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:29.56
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.78
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.89
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.77
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:42.07
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 6.19
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:33.70
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.89
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:77.73
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:177.32
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 78.42
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:22.19
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.51
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.03
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:45.06
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
6.85
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:16.42
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:GREECE MABAL
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:27.07
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:12.04
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:19.65
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:23.57
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:44.65
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 9.62
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:31.03
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:27.39
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:74.46
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:168.56
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 73.67
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.67
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:17.03
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.26
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:94.11
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.05
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:11.23
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM-CARDED/COMBED/ROTOR
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:AFRICAN SPINLAC
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:31.07
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:15.33
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:23.60
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:27.17
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:38.94
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 3.79
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:35.18
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:31.40
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:79.18
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:156.39
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 80.44
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:25.24
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:19.45
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
3.79
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:25.15
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
5.67
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:22.54
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:TCHAD RAKA
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:28.74
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.79
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:21.56
Mean
Fibre Length by Fibre Weight in mm.............................:25.09
%
of Coefficient of Fibre Length Variation by fibre
number..........:40.48
Short
Fibre Content by Fibre Number.................................: 6.05
Effective
Length in mm..............................................:32.66
Upper
Half Mean Length in mm........................................:29.05
%
of Causticaire Maturity
..........................................:79.08
Fibre
Fineness in mtex..............................................:180.21
Percentage
of Mature fibres.........................................: 80.30
Fibre
Strength in cN/tex at 1/8 in gauge............................:21.41
Classer
length in 16 th of an inch..................................:18.05
%
of Calculated non-lint content....................................:
5.37
Projected
Neps/gram in card sliver..................................:42.98
%
of Projected Waste lost total(blowroom+plus cards)................:
7.16
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Projected
single end yarn strength in cN/tex........................:16.00
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MEDIUM
STAPLE-MEDIUM TO LONG-CARDED/COMBED
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Carded Ring Spinning : Turns per cm............: 9.05
Count of yarn in tex....:19.68
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type
of Fibre...........................:TCHAD BACC
2.5
% Span length value in
mm.......................................:27.92
50
% Span length value in
mm........................................:13.24
Mean
Fibre Length by number in mm...................................:20.83